I KNOW the boutique world love, loves, LOVES topstitching and is a must to most boutique owners…. but what about understitching??? I saw a post in a group on facebook discussing why PDF patterns don’t include understitching instructions and to my surprise, some didn’t even know what it was!


So what is understitching? Undersitching is used to prevent a facing or lining from rolling to the outside of the garment. You press the seam allowance toward the facing or lining and edge stitch in place. Unlike topstitching, which is mostly for looks, understiching isn’t seen at all, but can be very important to the construction of a garment. It is very simple!! If you are a visual learner, I snapped some pictures while working on my daughter’s back to school outfit just for you!


Why did I choose to understitch this dress?? I will be honest, I don’t always understitch every lined dress I sew. Why? My daughter has so many clothes I make, on top of that she is the 6th grand daughter in a row and has a mountain of hand me downs. Her clothes only get worn a handful of times and I don’t always take the time to understitch. BUT this little tunic I’m hoping it gets a lot of wear. It is something I can pass down to my nieces, as it isn’t something that will go out of style soon and doesn’t have her name on it…. or Frozen ūüėČ I also wanted to embellish the bodice, which most often causes the lining to roll to the front. So let’s get started! I’m using a mash up of my Alyssa and Molly patterns here, but you can use this technique with ANYthing lined or with a facing!



On my example, I stitching my lining (white) to my front bodice (abc’s). ¬†Follow your patterns instructions exactly and STOP¬†when you stitch the lining or facing in place. Then,¬†press seam toward lining or facing.


Now edge stitch (stitch 1/8″ from edge) on the lining side, catching the pressed seam allowance under. You can see my seam allowance under my white lining! You want to catch that when edge stitching in place.


Press right sides out and continue following pattern instructions. EASY BREEZY!! This simple step makes a HUGE difference in how professional and neat your sewing will look! Is this something you will try?? Let me know and share a picture!!



4 thoughts on “Understitching?!?!?

  1. First of all – you have a model who has the cutest smile, ever! Don’t have any photos handy of what I’ve understitched, but I’m old school and have been doing this forever. Yes, your garment will look much more professional when you do. The facing will no longer roll to the outside of your garment with this method. Gorgeous dress, too.

  2. WOW!! You learn something everyday:)! Thank you !! And you think I’ve been sewing since 99′ and have never read or seen this sewing tip ever!! Being self taught I am missing a lot of professional applications. Could you recommend a FB group, Craftsy, sewing books, or other means for me to learn professional sewing techniques?? Thank you in advance:)!!

  3. Pingback: FREE new Cinderella dress pattern- size 5!

  4. Pingback: Molly Hack: sewn-on straps

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