So… I’m tall… I mean… I’m TALLLLL 🙂
5’10” no shoes ha ha ha See me towering over my tiny mom?
It makes finding RTW clothes a CHALLENGE to say the least… yes, I can pay an arm and a leg for “talls” but I want young trendy clothes!! So making my wardrobe is so rewarding for me!
So here are some tips for adding, or taking away length to a pattern for an adult… I’ve already posted how I like to do it for children here. But this method doesn’t work well for adult patterns, because all the sizes are made to fit an average height adult– for women most patterns are 5’6″… The “rule of thumb” is to add/take away 1/2″ for every 1″ that you are “off” the avg height drafted for.
So here we go!
Just like children’s patterns I DO NOT recommend only adding to the bottom hemline… it will make the overall garment longer… but it will not give you a great fit. If you are shorter or taller you need to add/take away length throughout the whole pattern!
This is my newest pattern the Pumpkin Spice Dolman as an example.
This is my pattern piece all taped together normally.
Knit patterns are much more forgiving in fit… with that being said, the four places I recommend adjusting are: at the shoulder/armscye… just under the bust line… and just under the waistline… and at the bottom hemline
Adding throughout the pattern helps keep the bust, waist and hip where they actually hit you 🙂
Now this is my pattern piece ready to be adjusted—my patterns are no trim pages, so I can simply not over lap as much to add length—for petit you would overlap more to take length away. I have made myself enough clothing to know how much I need to add to MOST patterns designed for average height– I add about 2 1/8″ to every shirt I make myself… 2 5/8″ to tunics…I even know how much I like in each spot– shoulders a scant 1/8-1/4″, chest and wasit area 3/4-1″, and bottom hem 1/2-1″.
Here are two pictures showing how you can achieve this:
The shoulder/armsyce can be done a couple ways– I like to take a smaller seam allowance there to add some length… You can also splice your pattern straight across where the armsyce is and spread your pattern… I only add about 1/8-1/4″ to mine, but that tiny difference makes SUCH A HUGE difference in how a shirt fits me!
For the chest and waist you can only do with overlap patterns like mine, I simply untapped it, and moved them down, adding what I needed, and retaped that section.
Or you can (with any pattern)… splice it straight across and measure what you’d like to add.
Shortening is the same method, you would just be overlapping instead of adding.
Now all you need to do it cut out and “true up” the sides… since you’re adding or taking away length the sides will not line up perfectly… you will just match them up and straighten them out with your new length.
Repeat process for the other pattern pieces 🙂
Ta-Da!!!! Now you have a shirt that will FIT you! ALL over! 🙂 I could never find this at the store that would actually cover my booty!
This hasn’t been the cutest blog post, BUT I hope it helps you fit your body shape better, so you can enjoy making yourself some great fitting clothes!! 🙂